フランス料理の巨匠、アラン・デュカス氏に会った時のことだ。「星の数にさほどの興味はない」と語る氏に尋ねた。世界で手がける店は合計いくつの星を得たのか。即座に「14」と、短い答えが返ってきた
料理界ではどんな大物も、星で店を格付けするミシュランガイドを意識する。掲載されるだけで一目置かれ、星の増減で客層や収益が激変するからだ。最高の三つ星ともなれば、世界の美食家が巡礼の列をなす
本日発売の「東京版」で、このガイドはアジア進出を果たした。星はパリの倍、計191個の大放出、三つ星8店のうち5店を和食とした。「世界一の美食の都」(編集長)への賛辞とも、巨大な外食市場へのサービスともとれる
三つ星「すきやばし次郎」は化粧室が店外で、パリの基準では星は微妙だ。高い評価は味のほか、業界の人間国宝とされるすし職人、小野二郎さん(82)への畏敬(いけい)だろう。商売道具の手を守るため、外出時に手袋を離さぬ人である。伝説が星を呼び、星が次の神話を生む
懐石からラーメンまで、東京の16万店を同じ物差しで比べられるのか。調査員に和食の優劣が分かるのか。大もとの疑問は、「調査結果」の公表を境に昔話になりつつある。食都に現れた星空を見上げ、食通たちは「評定の評定」に忙しい
デュカス氏がひと手間かけたポタージュと、小野さんが仕事をした穴子の握り。世の中、何がうまいかは星ではなく、己の舌と懐具合が決める。それで結局、いつものソース焼きそばが一番だったりするのだが。
我曾经同法国料理的巨匠阿伦·杜卡斯见过面。我曾经问过这个说过“对星级没有多大兴趣”的人,“你手下的饭店总共加起来有多少星?”他立刻简短的回答道:“14”。
在餐饮界,无论多么大牌的人物,都知道对饭店进行星级评定的《米其林指南》。仅仅在这杂志上露下脸,都会受到大家的尊敬;而由于星级的增减对客人群体和收入的影响巨大。如果可以被评为最高的三星,那么全世界的美食家都会前来拜访。
今天销售的“东京版”表示该指南已经进入亚洲。总的星数是巴黎的两倍,总共授出191颗。其中8家被授予3颗星的饭店是日本料理店。杂志称赞说是“世界第一美食之都”(总编辑),也是对巨大的外卖市场的一种服务
被评为三颗星的“数寄屋橋次郎”的厕所在店外,按照巴黎的标准这星可能得的有点问题。这么高的评价,除了味道之外,是不是还有对被誉为业界国宝之称的小野二郎的敬畏之情呢?据说他为了守住自己维生道具,在外出的时候也从不摘手套。从传说获得评星,而评星诞生了又一个神话。
从茶点到拉面,这杂志可以用一个标准比较出东京16万家店的好坏级别么?调查员清楚日本料理的优劣么?最开始的这些疑问在调查结果公开发表后就成为过去时了。食神们一边看着饮食之都的众多饭店的星,一边忙着对杂志的评定进行自己的评定。
一边是杜卡斯亲自制作的浓汤,一边是小野亲自料理的海鳗。世界上什么好吃不是看几颗星,而是看自己的舌头和钱包。这样说来可能还是觉得浇汁炒面最好吃吧。
I once met the famous French master in cooking, Alain Ducasse. He said that he didn’t care much about the star. But when I asked him what’s total number of stars of restaurants in his hand over the world, he gave a short and quick reply:14.
The Michelin Guide is knowledgeable in culinary field, no mater what a big name he is. One will be respected just because of the name on it, and the change of star numbers will impact the customer base and revenue obviously. If one is bestowed of three stars, the gourmets will pilgrimage.
The Tokyo edition, sold today, is its step into Asia. The total number of stars is twice as Paris,191. For 8 restaurants of 3 stars, 5 of them are Japanese foods restaurants. The guide offer the complimentary that Tokyo is the best place for foods, and also offers a service to enormous eating-out market.
The Sukibayasi jiro got 3 stars but its rest room is outside of the restaurant. Maybe the criteria of the stars is different compared with Paris’. This high evaluation is not only for its good taste, and it seems it show the reverence to the ono jiro, who is said as the living national treasury in culinary field. He is said that he never leave his gloves when he go out to keep his stuff which keeps his livelihood. The sayings brought the stars, and the stars will bring a legend.
This guide can distinguish the differences of 160,000 restaurants in Tokyo from tea-ceremony dishes to Ramen by single criteria?The investigators are familiar with the bad and good flavor of Japanese foods? The basic question becomes outdated when investigation results are published. The gourmets looks at the stars of the restaurants in capital of foods, and are busy in giving comments on guide’s comments.
On one hand, there is the potage by restaurant of Ducasse; on the other hand, there is conger eel made by Ono san. The most delicious thing in the world is not by the star numbers, but by your tough and money. If judged by that, I think maybe the sourced fried noodles is the most delicious thing.
posted on 2007-11-22 20:53
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